A New Era for Vintage Luxury Shoes

Collecting Vintage Luxury Shoes

At Theodore Bruce Auctioneers & Valuers, our vintage fashion auctions span pre 1980’s finds – sometimes called “true vintage” – as well as designer clothing, shoes and accessories from Australian and international labels. While a 50 year designation is usual for objects and collectables deemed vintage, Fashion Specialist Ida Combley explains that there is a slightly different take in the fashion industry. “Generally, a 20 year cut off is used, so our vintage fashion collections include designer pieces up to the 2000s.”

For vintage fashion buyers, the focus is on the unique, classic and collectable, with rare and runway featured items also holding high appeal. Typically, pieces are high end, sometimes timeless designs, or representative of a unique moment in fashion history. For luxe shoes, sought after styles can range from the elegant to the outrageous.

“Some models like Chanel slingbacks are always popular,” says Ida. “For designer fashion collectors, it’s often either how a piece makes you feel, or it’s about capturing a moment in fashion history.”

Pictured: Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Paris: Black & Beige Kitten Heel Camellia Point Toe Sling-Backs, Removable Chain Pearls to Ankle Strap & Floral Motif to Toe

From Runway to Red Carpet

Our auction house typically sees three types of buyers bidding for luxury shoes. There are the fashion lovers attracted to a designer shoe and enticed by the lower price tag. There are the ad hoc buyers, drawn in by a particular colour, style or design. And then there are serious fashion collectors, hoping to acquire the truly idiosyncratic.

“Think about Vivienne Westwood and those huge heels that Naomi Campbell fell in while on the runway,” Ida suggests. “They are iconic now for being so campy and ridiculous, and for that particular moment.”

The shoes in question were a pair of 9 inch “Super Elevated Gillies” heels that Cambell fell in during Westwood’s Fall/Winter 1993 “Anglomania“ show. They have now made their way into major collections globally, including the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney.

While museum collections may be one destination for luxe shoes, the red carpet is another. The Marc Jacobs Kiki Boot for instance, a 7-inch platform knee high boot, has been a celebrity favourite since its debut in 2016. Worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian, Paris Hilton and Olivia Rodrigo, it’s seen a new wave of popularity with Millennials and older Gen Z fashionistas.

“A lot of the 1990s and early 2000s luxe shoes are super popular right now – the Kiki Boot, Vivienne Westwood, and stilettos boots from the John Galliano for Christian Dior era – and sometimes they are purchased to look at rather than wear, except maybe to the car and back at an event. Fashion isn’t meant to be practical,” Ida adds.

Pictured: Dior, France: Black Leather Knee High Boots, Stiletto Heel, Decorative Eyelet & Monogram Buckle

Classic, Feminine & Fun

For fashion lovers looking for the wonderful, and wearable, fashion auctions can provide an inroad. Luxury shoes may provide an astute investment, or simply an opportunity to experience fashion at its finest, with classic styles by designers such as Chanel, Prada, Gucci and Ferragamo held in high esteem. There are particularities however, as Ida explains.

“Chanel has very popular styles that are super wearable, such as the classic slingback with the double ‘C’ logo, or their trainers. Street wear is very popular right now. Chanel has changed manufacturers however and some weren’t happy with the switch, so we find it’s the Chanel pre 2020 that is most attractive for bidders.”

With Gucci shoes, the most desired styles feature the Gucci Horsebit, a logo reminiscent of the metal rings on a horse’s bridle that was designed by Guccio Gucci’s sons in 1953. An homage to their late father’s love of equestrian motifs, it symbolised the luxury, refinement and timeless elegance associated with the equestrian world, and its appeal has endured for more than 70 years.

In addition to classic elegance, styles may ebb and flow in popularity, and right now, embellishments are having their day. “People are really getting into vintage designs like Prada with decorative elements,” explains Ida. “There’s an emphasis on feminine shoes across brands, with  florettes, bows, strappy styles and laces all very popular at the moment. The Ferragamo Vera Bow is another trim that really catches people.”

For older fashion buyers, it may come as no surprise that millennials are also looking to Manolo Blahnik, a designer associated with bold designs and the fashion-focused character of Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City. Younger buyers are watching the new (and original) television series and discovering the appeal of Manolo Blahnik heels, flats and handbags.

“Interestingly, it was the TV series that really made Manolo Blahnik. The brand wasn’t at the forefront of luxury shoes at the time and other fashion houses had turned down invitations to dress the cast. There’s been another surge in the shoes’ popularity this decade in line with the shoe and movies, and while they can still be expensive, the shoes are really good quality and easy to wear.”

Pictured: Prada, Italy: Burnt Orange Suede Platform Pump Heel Sandal, Decorative Straps to Toe

Supporting Sustainable Fashion

For a new generation of buyers – and many long term vintage lovers – another incentive to buy luxury shoes second hand, is the adverse impact fashion has on the environment. As we’ve written previously in The Rise and Rise of Vintage Fashion, the fashion industry is the second-largest industrial polluter, producing more emissions than air travel and maritime transport combined.

Earth.org estimates that fast fashion is the primary culprit, producing 1.92 million tonnes of textile waste every year, and making the fashion industry responsible for 20% of global wastewater. Alarmingly, the apparel industry’s global emissions are set to increase by 50% over the next six years.

It’s a key reason why the recycled fashion movement has gained momentum. While there have always been buyers drawn to vintage fashion, homewares and collectables, it’s now moving mainstream, with a whole new generation looking to buy at vintage stores or fashion auctions.

For luxury shoe lovers, there’s an added appeal in quality and enduring style, with designs that last far beyond fast fashion.

Pictured: Christian Louboutin, France: Beige, Orange & Black Snakeskin ‘Viveka’ Peeptoe Heels, SS 14 Wrap Around Ankle Strap, Leather Interior

Loving Fashion Auctions

At Theodore Bruce Auctioneers & Valuers, we offer regular auctions of vintage & designer fashion, including clothing for women and men, shoes, handbags and accessories.

To stay in the loop, join our mailing list via the link below, follow us on Instagram, or keep an eye on our Upcoming Auctions.

We also provide fashion appraisals and welcome consignments of high quality vintage luxury shoes and fashion – with sought after brands including Balenciaga, Burberry, Chanel, Christian Louboutin, Coach, Fendi, Ferragamo, Furla, Gucci, Hermes, Jimmy Choo, Loewe, Maje, Moncler, Miu Miu, Prada, Sandro, Tod’s, Tory Burch and Versace.

** A version of this blog also features in the Winter 2025 edition of Antiques to Vintage magazine.

Pictured: Christian Louboutin, France: Black Patent Leather ‘Octavia’ Loafers, Gold Tone Hardware, Calf Skin Lining